Independent · Multi-brand
Northeast Florida
Mon–Fri 8–6 · Sat 9–4
The most common complaint we take on ovens is not a broken part. It is “everything takes longer than the recipe says”, and the display insists the oven is at 350.
Displays report the set point, not the cavity. A temperature sensor that has drifted will feed the control a reading that is optimistic by 20 or 30 degrees, and the control will happily hold the oven there. Everything bakes long, cakes sink, and roasting times stop making sense.
So we measure. An independent probe goes in the cavity, and we log the actual temperature across a full preheat and a full cycle — the overshoot, the recovery, and the average once it settles. Only then does anyone decide whether the fault is a drifted sensor, a lost calibration, a failing element or a control problem. It is the difference between a corrected offset and an unnecessary part.
Gas ranges here develop a specific seasonal complaint: a burner that clicks and clicks without lighting, or that keeps sparking after the flame is established, or that fires every igniter on the range at once.
That is almost always moisture and residue on the electrode rather than a failed spark module. Boil-over leaves a film, and at 75 percent mean relative humidity that film does not dry between uses. The spark tracks to ground through it. Cleaning and thoroughly drying the electrode and its ceramic collar clears most of these calls without a part.
A yellow, lazy flame is a different fault: an obstructed burner port, a fouled burner cap, or an air-shutter or gas-pressure issue. We check manifold pressure with a manometer rather than judging the flame by eye.
Homeowners connect refrigeration to hurricanes and never connect ovens. They should.
Matthew took power from nearly 250,000 metro customers in October 2016; Helene took 113,000 JEA customers off the grid in September 2024. When a whole neighbourhood is re-energised at once, the transient reaches every circuit in the house, including the 240-volt range circuit and the wall oven.
Ovens rarely die outright. They fail selectively — the broil element stops, the convection motor stops responding, the display loses a segment, the meat probe circuit reads nonsense, or the oven runs but ignores the timer. If the fault dates from the morning the power came back, tell us, because it changes what we test first.
A steam or combination oven is two appliances sharing a cavity, and the steam half is the half that generates service calls. It boils water in a generator, injects it into a sealed cavity, and then has to get the moisture back out at the end of the cycle. Each of those stages has its own failure: a generator that no longer heats, level probes that misread and either flood or run dry, a solenoid that will not open, or a drain and vent path that leaves the cavity wet.
The installation matters more than on a conventional oven. Some models are plumbed to a supply and a drain, some run from a reservoir the owner fills, and the two are serviced differently — a plumbed unit brings the supply line, the shut-off and the drain routing into the diagnosis, while a reservoir unit brings the tank seals and the level sensing. Knowing which one you have before we arrive changes what rides on the van.
The cavity seal is the other pressure point. Steam only works in a cavity that holds it, so a door that has dropped out of square, a gasket that has taken a set, or a hinge that no longer pulls the door home shows up as poor results and moisture escaping into the cabinetry around the oven — which, over a season, is a cabinet problem as well as an appliance one.
Through Riverside, Avondale, Old Ortega, San Marco and Old Mandarin the housing stock is early twentieth century, and the kitchens have been retrofitted more than once. Cabinet openings are undersized for current appliance dimensions, dedicated circuits are often missing, and ventilation was added late. When a replacement is genuinely the right call in one of those houses, the cabinet opening decides what will physically fit — and that is worth knowing before anything is ordered.
Cavity temperature logged with an independent probe, element resistance and draw, sensor resistance, door alignment and seal condition, ignition and manifold pressure on gas, and the control board’s actual behaviour under load.
$80 flat diagnostic, credited toward the repair when you approve it, written estimate before any part is ordered, genuine OEM parts, 90 days on labor and 365 days on parts.
Check that the oven door closes flush and that the door seal is intact all the way round. A sagging door lets cavity heat wash the control panel every single cycle, and heat is what ages a board. Correcting a hinge is cheap; the board it protects is not.
Open the breaker for the range or wall oven circuit once the power is already out. Northeast Florida averages about 68 thunderstorm days a year and every named storm ends with a coordinated restoration. The board in a modern oven is exposed to that transient and there is no benefit to leaving it connected while nothing is cooking.
Restore the breaker after the street has been stable for twenty minutes, then run the oven empty on bake at 350 for half an hour and watch it. Selective failures are the pattern to look for: one element dead, a display segment missing, convection ignoring the command, or the cavity holding well below its set point. Note exactly what is wrong before you call.
One fee to find out: $80, flat, and it comes off the bill the moment you say go ahead. Past that, work on wall ovens and ranges across this coast sits between $180 and $990, and where inside that band a job lands is decided by the part that failed rather than by the badge on the door.
The rows are the repairs this category actually generates, so the table narrows as the subject does.
| Repair | Parts and labor |
|---|---|
| Diagnostic visit, flat | $80 |
| Oven thermostat or temperature sensor | $180–$570 |
| Igniter, spark module or surface element | $200–$570 |
| Convection fan or motor | $270–$730 |
| Electronic control board | $440–$990 |
You get a written estimate before any part is ordered or any labor begins. Nothing proceeds without your approval.
The same table again, entered from the symptom rather than from the part. Nobody rings up asking for a defrost heater; they ring up because something is wrong and they want to know what it is going to cost.
Every figure below is a row of the table on this page, narrowed to the repair the symptom leads to. The $80 diagnostic decides which row you are actually in, and it comes off the bill once you approve the work.
| What you would call it | The repair it leads to | Parts and labor |
|---|---|---|
| Oven not heating up at all | Oven thermostat or temperature sensor | $180–$570 |
| Oven running cold, everything takes longer to bake | Oven thermostat or temperature sensor | $180–$570 |
| Gas burner clicking but not lighting | Igniter, spark module or surface element | $200–$570 |
| Convection fan noisy or not spinning | Convection fan or motor | $270–$730 |
| Oven control board dead after a storm | Electronic control board | $440–$990 |
$80 to come out and find the fault, credited back the moment the repair is approved. The work itself lands between $180 and $990 on this kind of equipment — $180–$570 for oven thermostat or temperature sensor, $440–$990 for electronic control board — and which of those it turns out to be is the thing the visit settles. Your own number goes in writing before a part is ordered.
Most often: everything baking long, or browning unevenly front to back; display reading the set point while the cavity sits well below it. If your symptom is not on that list, describe what the appliance is doing rather than naming a part — the diagnosis then starts from a measurement instead of a guess.
Duval County, St. Johns County, Clay County, Nassau County. Roughly a 40-mile working radius from the Jacksonville core. $80 flat diagnostic fee, credited toward the repair when you approve the work.
Rated 4.6 out of 5 across 101 customer reviews. Every entry below is one appointment, written up afterwards by the householder whose kitchen it happened in.
Filed under this category, so these are visits to this kind of equipment.
Our oven fan had turned into a howl loud enough to hear from the porch. The motor bearing had rusted through, which he put down to steam finding its way past a tired door seal. He changed the motor and the seal.
Barrett L.2026-03-27
The steam oven was leaving the cavity wet and venting moisture into the cabinet above. He replaced the seal and cleared the condensate path, then explained how to leave the door after a cycle in a house this humid.
Xenia B.2026-01-13
The wall oven was reading correct on the display and cooking cool in the cavity. He replaced the sensor, then found the convection motor was also tired and gave me the option rather than deciding for me.
Valentina R.2026-06-14
You get a written estimate before any part is ordered or any labor begins. Nothing proceeds without your approval.